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P&M Billie Jacket

Debbie Christensen

This here is the Papillon & Mandarine (or P&M) Billie Jacket. The two versions are called Classico and Perfecto,which somehow describes the lapels. One style has the large, crossover lapels typical of a moto jacket, and the version I made doesn't. It is a very cool-looking jacket though.

papillon and manderine pm pattern p&m billie jacket

The main fabric is a Merchant & Mills flax and cotton blend oilskin called Tobacco. I've been wanting to make a jacket with this fabric, and I think it pairs perfectly with the Billie pattern. It has a sort of worn leather look, but it won't get damaged in the rain!

Contrasting fabrics are encouraged in this pattern design. I wasn't initially planning on it, but the black bits look so good. Even though it has a tighter weave, I love the contrast in both texture and color with the black Merchant & Mills oilskin.

papillon and manderine pm pattern p&m billie jacket

I've never sewn a P&M pattern before, I think they started out with just kids' patterns (or that's all we ordered at first). They're a French company, so everything has been translated. I'm super impressed, the instructions were very detailed and clear, and the jacket went together well.

papillon and mandirine pm pattern p&m billie jacket

The only change I made, which is glaringly obvious, was to add pockets. It's of course an easy addition, but I just can't imagine a jacket without pockets. Where are you supposed to stick your hands? Maybe it's a French thing.

papillon and manderine pm pattern p&m billie jacket

The sleeves are very fitted, and wearing them over long sleeves feels too tight. So my advice is to either widen them or don't wear them over long sleeves.

The lining is a Liberty of London poplin, Anthology A. I can't resist a Liberty lining, nor can I resist a bit of piping!

papillon and mandirine pm pattern p&m billie jacket

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